Smoke touches nearly every part of the experience at chef Victor Albisu’s South American steakhouse—from grilled-lime pisco cocktails to gratis warm bread and smoked olive oil to Nutella-stuffed churros with burnt banana. Composed entrées have proven the least winning of late. We’d load up on appetizers—don’t forget juicy Wagyu empanadas—and focus on the lengthy asado (grill) portion of the menu. An applewood smoker perfectly flavors steaks, house-made sausages such as chorizo and morcilla, and lamb shoulder. Mix and match all with sauces such as a bright chimichurri and vegetable sides that often get their own turn in the flames. Very expensive.
Also great: Hamachi ceviche with avocado and soy; provoleta (seared cheese with shishito peppers); chopped salad; Peruvian chicken; grilled-carrot cake.