Cleveland Park likes to think of Ardeo as its go-to neighborhood restaurant, but the comfortable, candlelit bistro is much more. Even after 18 years, the cuisine and atmosphere maintain a modern edge—the former under ex–Le Diplomate chef Kelly Bunkers, the latter thanks to frequent renovations. Familiar snacks such as deviled eggs go global with a hit of fire and crunch from Sriracha and peanuts, while larger plates are also tweaked in interesting ways—think waffles with a crispy duck leg instead of chicken or Icelandic cod taken to Provence with a pungent olive tapenade. Moderate to expensive.
Also great: Caesar with crispy chicken cracklings; burger with truffle; lemon-vanilla chiffon cake.