Lush fare, enveloping banquettes, and the hypnotic twang of sitar music make Sudhir Seth’s dining room the equivalent of a chill session led by a chef/guru. The menu touches on a variety of regional cuisines, though deliciousness crosses all borders. Favorites include a casserole of tender baby eggplants in sesame-peanut gravy, coconut-shrimp curry flavored with cloves and ginger, and an apricot-studded Parsi lamb casserole capped in crunchy potatoes. Even a simple bowl of mah ki dal—a traditional side at every Indian restaurant—is one you’ll grudgingly share. The black lentils are cooked overnight to an ultra-creamy consistency—dal to fantasize about or, better yet, to eat by the spoonful. Moderate.
Also great: Butter naan; stir-fried calamari with coconut; samosa chaat; chicken with yogurt and cardamom; spinach with buttermilk and peanuts.