Cheap Eats 2017: Afghan Bistro

Afghan Bistro's warm mezze platter. Photo by Scott Suchman.

This snug strip-mall dining room is a family affair—that’s owner Omar Masroor warmly making the rounds while his wife cooks—and the menu’s recipes have been passed through the Kabul-rooted family for three generations. Appetizer platters show off the kitchen’s many skills—there are homey dips, vibrant salads and slaws, and terrific yogurt-topped dumplings. Look to the chalkboard for some of the most luxurious meat dishes in the Afghan repertoire, including chicken in a velvety cilantro gravy and karahis that taste just shy of fire. Also good: Lentil soup; charbroiled rack of lamb.

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