About Ruan Thai
You’ll find one of the city’s great noodle dishes—an electric mix of vermicelli with peanuts, coconut milk, and lots of lime—inside this restaurant. We’d be happy calling that dinner, but it’d be a shame to miss the rest of the cooking, which runs hotter and tangier than at the competition. A green-mango salad laced with scallions and roasted coconut singes the tongue, an oyster-mushroom salad almost elicits tears, and chicken is bathed in a hurts-so-good papaya curry. Also good: Khao soi, a chicken curry with egg noodles and pickled cabbage; northern Thai pork curry.