Hoagies at this mom-and-son joint always pose a conundrum: How the heck do you eat this thing? Even the half portions are so gargantuan you’ll be tempted to fork-and-knife it. But there’s nothing wrong with going for a double-handed grip and letting the juices run down your arm. Particularly worth the mess are Pop’s beef brisket with apple-horseradish cream, five-year-aged Gouda, and veal jus (spring for the optional fried egg), as well as the Bolognese Parmesan. Although it might seem as if you can’t eat anything more, the house-made French onion dip with chips is worth it. Also good: Hong Kong Connection with char siu-style pork; seasonal pickles.