You’ll want to visit this Cantonese/Szechuan restaurant when chef Wang Wen Fang is working—at age 86, he still puts in three days a week (Thursday through Monday). You may catch him in back, rolling pancakes and certainly in the dining room, where he carves some of the best Peking duck we’ve sampled. It seems silly to stray from a feast of moist meat and crackling skin, but don’t ignore the Chinese special menu under the plexiglass table and along the walls. Dishes such as young bamboo shoots with tofu skin or white fish fillets with black beans, chives, and lotus blossoms threaten to steal the show. Also good: Spicy seafood hot pot; beef chow fun noodles.