Cheap Eats 2017: London Curry House

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It’s easy to get distracted by the curry-colored walls, chandeliers and neon lights, and images of Indian and British celebrities (wait, is that Kate Winslet?). But when the food arrives, there’s plenty to keep your focus on the table. Goan fish curry with silky bass or vinegar-tinged chicken vindaloo are richly spiced and not too greasy. Meanwhile, lamb biryani comes with a bit of flair: The dish is served in a copper pot with a layer of naan sealing the top. A server carves it open tableside, releasing the aromatics from the rice and meat within. Also good: Dahi poori, lentil puffs stuffed with yogurt, tamarind, and chickpeas; malai kofta, a creamy onion curry with cheese-and-vegetable dumplings.