Cheap Eats 2017: Luzmary

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Pull out your stretchy pants—the hunks of meat here are so monstrous they barely fit on the plate. Still, you’ll want to put a dent in the silpancho, a thinly breaded steak similar to schnitzel. It’s served over white rice and fried potatoes—plus two over-easy eggs and a pile of diced tomato and onions. Just as hearty is the picante mixto, thick slabs of tender cow’s tongue and chicken simmered in tomato-based gravy, accompanied by rice and potatoes. It all makes the salteñas, savory pastries with a brothy beef-and-vegetable filling, feel downright light. Also good: Humintas, sweet cornbread; jalea, fried-seafood salad.

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