Once-elusive chef Peter Chang is now settled with a string of restaurants in Virginia and Maryland, plus a new finer-dining flagship in Bethesda. At these twin branches, you’ll find streamlined Szechuan menus with top-quality ingredients. We continue to delight in balloon-like scallion-bubble pancakes, ethereally crunchy bamboo fish, and smoldering bowls of custardy mapo tofu (one of the best versions around). Delicacies such as cumin lamb chops can bust the Cheap Eats budget, but most are big enough to feed a crowd. Also good: Grandma’s cold noodle; whole volcanic fish.