Eat Great Cheap 2015The dishes we crave at this worn-around-the-edges dining room—humbler sister to glitzy Duangrat’s next door— are ones we haven’t found anywhere else in the area: dumplings with skins fashioned from lychee bulbs, or succulent slices of five-spice-roasted pork served with pickled ginger, chili vinaigrette, and a dark plum dipping sauce. Curries, especially the red-curry-bathed pork, are a particular strength. Pad Thai might be a Thai-restaurant cliché, but it’s popular for a reason—and this kitchen shows you why. Also good: Shrimp-and-pork dumplings; fried cod in chili sauce.
