Soup dumplings (xiao long bao), elusive in these parts, are an obvious draw at this tiny spot. Chef Wei Sun’s versions hold their hot liquid-and-pork fillings beautifully and are served with ginger-laced black vinegar for dipping. (A popular pan-fried version is available only on weekends.) Still, there’s much more among the list of 200-odd dishes to revel in. Home in on Shanghai-style specialties including chilled chicken poached in rice wine and grain liquor; toothsome noodles with spicy beef and peppers; and a comforting bowl of ground pork, cabbage, and chewy rice cakes. Then spring for an extra order of those dumplings. Also good: Lemongrass duck; sauteed pea shoots.