100 Very Best Restaurants: #18 – All-Purpose

The Duke #7 pizza at All-Purpose. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Crispy Brussels sprouts again, you might think upon sitting down at this pizza shop. What’s become the tritest appetizer of the season is redeemed here with nutty sesame, whipped ricotta, and plenty of lemon—the combination is so good you might order a double. Elsewhere, chef Mike Friedman upgrades Italian-American favorites but never sacrifices their homeyness. There are garlic knots blanketed in Alfredo-like fonduta, not to mention the city’s best eggplant Parm. And that’s before you get to the excellent pies. Toppings change often, but the fabulous Buona, with pepperoni and hot honey, always sticks around. Moderate.
Also great: Antipasti salad; Sicilian tuna mousse; fried calamari; Meadowlands pizza, with chicken confit and Gorgonzola Ranch; Italian hoagie.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.