Crispy Brussels sprouts again, you might think upon sitting down at this pizza shop. What’s become the tritest appetizer of the season is redeemed here with nutty sesame, whipped ricotta, and plenty of lemon—the combination is so good you might order a double. Elsewhere, chef Mike Friedman upgrades Italian-American favorites but never sacrifices their homeyness. There are garlic knots blanketed in Alfredo-like fonduta, not to mention the city’s best eggplant Parm. And that’s before you get to the excellent pies. Toppings change often, but the fabulous Buona, with pepperoni and hot honey, always sticks around. Moderate.
Also great: Antipasti salad; Sicilian tuna mousse; fried calamari; Meadowlands pizza, with chicken confit and Gorgonzola Ranch; Italian hoagie.