At Eric Ziebold and Célia Laurent’s dining room—the more casual sister to our number-one-ranked Métier—the menu is divided into categories such as “Craft” and “Ingredients.” (It’s not as tricky to navigate as it might sound.) These days, we’ve found the most satisfaction in the “History” section, where Ziebold fuses a filet of mackerel with the coconut-curry flavors of mulligatawny soup, and pastry chef Anne Specker puts forth a textbook opéra cake. Cool touches abound, from the abstract art to the house-made peanut brittle that accompanies your pot of coffee or tea. Very expensive.
Also great: Lobster French toast; foie gras torchon; braised short rib with risotto; roast chicken; cranberry scones with Tête de Moîne and Pont-l’Évêque cheeses.