Lovers of bitter cocktails, tiny fish, and gloriously creamy cheeses—also known as Italophiles—have a home at this leisurely no-reservations hangout, a respite from the 14th Street swarm. We could graze for hours on the veggie specials—which recently included butternut-squash agrodolce, roasted leeks with prosciutto, and braised cauliflower with saffron. Start things off with a glossy bulb of burrata, and throw in a pizza, too. The crusts, arrayed with treats such as chanterelles and imported speck, are wonderfully chewy. Moderate.
Also great: Celery salad; oil-cured tuna belly; roasted clams with sherry; Calabrese-salami pizza; clam pizza; chocolate “salami.”