Style and substance don’t always match up. A notable exception is this Mediterranean restaurant where the fare is as swoon-inducing as the setting. Sip a vermouth cocktail in the carriageway before dining in the cozy stable house or brick courtyard. Chef Anthony Chittum serves both à la carte and tasting menus throughout. We much prefer the former—a better (and less expensive) way to tour the breadth of his innovative Greek and Italian share plates. Many of them get a rustic kiss from the wood fire—roasted dates, say, or grilled oysters with goat butter and chilies. Don’t skip the pastas—we dream of egg noodles with braised rabbit as much as we do summer nights under the century-old wisteria. Expensive.
Also great: Cauliflower soup with fried oysters; lamb-neck phyllo pie; charred-broccoli bruschetta; orange-blossom doughnuts.