Burrata gets dressed up with everything from truffles to pig ears, so what makes this Italian dining room’s simple version special? A perfectionist attention to detail—the cheese stands at room temperature for lushness—and an emphasis on careful sourcing (Ligurian olive oil, fleur de sel). The dish, a constant on the handwritten menu, is emblematic of the experience. Chef/owner Esther Lee, who cooked here for 17 years before taking the helm last year, hasn’t changed much. But there’s more consistency among the five generous courses; now the plethora of antipasti and pastas are just as lovely as mains such as whole roasted squab. At a time when tasting menus have ballooned in courses and price, this relaxed $78 sojourn ($88 on Friday and Saturday) feels like a steal. Expensive.
Also great: Gnocchi with hazelnuts; sea bass with artichokes; chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream.