Tasting menus can cost as much as cross-country flights; chef Johnny Monis’s $49 seven-course northern Thai menu transports on a budget. The one factor that has deescalated is the heat level; we’ve spent previous meals here chomping down free baskets of cooling vegetables (still delicious) and taming the scorchers with beer on the rocks, as in Bangkok. Recent dishes are bridled enough to pair with the many spice-friendly white wines (just say yes to Riesling). That said, there’s still plenty of sizzle in plates such as a chicken-liver larb salad heaped with herbs, chilies, and crisp shallots. What hasn’t changed in six years: genuinely gracious service. Moderate.
Also great: Pork with lime and mustard greens; whiskey-marinated pork ribs; tom kha soup with catfish dumplings.