Tasting menus can cost as much as cross-country flights; chef Johnny Monis’s $49 seven-course northern Thai menu transports on a budget. The one factor that has deescalated is the heat level; we’ve spent previous meals here chomping down free baskets of cooling vegetables (still delicious) and taming the scorchers with beer on the rocks, as in Bangkok. Recent dishes are bridled enough to pair with the many spice-friendly white wines (just say yes to Riesling). That said, there’s still plenty of sizzle in plates such as a chicken-liver larb salad heaped with herbs, chilies, and crisp shallots. What hasn’t changed in six years: genuinely gracious service. Moderate.
Also great: Pork with lime and mustard greens; whiskey-marinated pork ribs; tom kha soup with catfish dumplings.
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Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.