On a recent night, we sat near a table of rambunctious children and, on the opposite side, chefs from Pineapple and Pearls. That’s 2 Amys, and despite the din, we wouldn’t want it any other way. Two menus play to the varied crowd. Kids and carb lovers go for wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas. Food nerds never miss small-plate specials such as shaved porchetta in tonnato sauce and an abundance of “little fishies.” (The menu boasts “the most extensive collection of salt-cured anchovies on the East Coast.”) Restaurateur Peter Pastan’s weird and wonderful Southern Italian wine collection is worth a trip in itself. Moderate.
Also great: Shaved-puntarelle (chicory) salad; fried green tomatoes and aïoli; pickled sardines with celery-apple salad; fried-eggplant pizza; lemon-almond biscotti.