Four words: bacon-and-cheese naan. This stupendous East-West riff on grilled cheese is enough of a lure to Keir and Binda Singh’s opulent Indian restaurant in Howard County. But there’s much more. A fire pit outside gives way to dining rooms with giraffe-print carpets, pillow-strewn banquettes, and gaslit hearths. The kitchen turns out dishes true to their origins but cleaner and more modern in feel. Many fixings are from the restaurant’s nearby farm or sourced locally, such as the crispy duck over cardamom-and-cumin-perfumed polenta. Moderate.
Also great: Kerala cake (mélange of crab, corn, and mustard seeds); lamb and squash samosas; palak chaat; garam masala goat; almond-crusted lamb chops; French-toast bread pudding.