Playful without being pretentious, French chef Cedric Maupillier clearly loves to have fun with Americana at his Shaw restaurant. Witness his mushroom-vinegar potato chips with onion dip or his Thanksgiving-all-year-round salad of pulled turkey leg, cranberries, endive, spiced pecans, and buttermilk ranch. That’s not to say that he’s forgotten his origins. Convivial’s butterflied poulet rouge with crisp skin and tarragon vinegar tastes like something you’d actually happen upon in France, and leeks dijonnaise start out as a textbook classic before being blitzed with croutons, fried capers, and hard-boiled egg. Moderate.
Also great: Duck-gizzard confit with duck egg; latke with whitefish salad; pork-cheek cassoulet; burger with bacon and raclette; coq au vin fried chicken; floating island.