“Global small plates” tends to be code for lack of direction in a kitchen. That’s not the case at Compass Rose, where owner Rose Previte’s travels shape a menu that pays respects to Lebanon, Peru, and beyond without feeling like another fusion cliché. The rowhouse dining room adds a cozy dinner-party vibe. Get a taste of Jamaica with spicy lamb curry, then sample Denmark with a steelhead-trout smorrebrod that puts avocado toast to shame. The place also deserves credit for introducing Washington to khachapuri, a cheesy, buttery flatbread from the country of Georgia that’s become the restaurant’s most famous dish. Moderate.
Also great: Grilled duck hearts; tuna poke; sambal udang; Korean short ribs; fried cauliflower; panna cotta.