Ari Gejdenson’s Neapolitan trattoria feels like a nightly party. Dates line the marble bar, sipping Italian wines or aperitifs. Groups crowd around wooden tables for blistery pies topped with cheffy combinations such as locally made sausage with charred onions. (Get them for a discount during happy hour.) The kitchen’s talents aren’t limited to pizza. A rich tagliatelle with beef ragu or a porcini-rubbed local rib eye does the trick on a winter night. Moderate.
Also great: Chicken-liver crostini; meat and cheese boards; lobster/roasted-fennel ravioli.