There’s something distinctly LA about this white-tiled spot—that’s the menu scrawled on the wall—and not just because we spotted a Gjelina cookbook in a messy stack. This is a laid-back, kid-friendly place that celebrates veggies with glee—we wish fried pickled chard stems with ranch could replace onion rings on every menu. Many of Sam Adkins’s share plates and desserts are gluten- or dairy-free, yet they never feel ascetic. (Check out the chicken thigh perked up with the kitchen’s “New Bay” spice.) Don’t skip the cocktails, which read boozy but taste smooth. Moderate.
Also great: Broccoli salad with Piave cheese and chilies; pastrami chicken breast; smoked-pork hash; doughnuts; biscuits.