Washington has more Japanese restaurants than ever, but we still gravitate to this tranquil stalwart. The sushi bar’s specials board boasts seasonal delicacies such as whole aji (Japanese mackerel), presented in two parts: sushi and sashimi brightened with ginger, scallions, and ponzu sauce, followed by a heady miso soup brewed with its bones. (You can also order the bones fried—they’re as addictive as chips.) Don’t dismiss rolls as Americanized diversions—the dragon maki with crunchy head-on shrimp and lobster is a star. Expensive.
Also great: Hirame (flounder with ponzu sauce); octopus and vegetables in sweet vinegar; fried agedashi tofu; tempura.