When Cedric Maupillier opened this French/American eatery, it was a trendy hot spot. Five years in, it has matured into a warm neighborhood bistro. Families and date-nighters create a boisterous atmosphere at dinner and brunch—equally good times to sample the rib-sticking fare. The kitchen’s wood grill still turns out one of the best burgers in town, and we’ll never pass up escargot hushpuppies. Though not as airtight as the classics, new additions from chef Matt Cockrell are worth exploring, such as a shellfish-and-dorade stew. Even if you’re not celebrating a birthday, the sprinkle-strewn brownie sundae makes it feel as if you are. Expensive.
Also Great: onion soup; flammekueche flatbreads; cassoulet.