At their brick-walled bistro, Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman’s self-imposed challenge is that every plate have something pickled, preserved, or fermented. This might be as simple as spiking a pear-and-sparkling-wine cocktail with white balsamic vinegar or as inspired as steeping pork in the kitchen’s revelatory sauerkraut. Many plates are meant to be shared—pimiento cheese, chicken skins with pickle dip— a lovely approach until you fight for the last bite. Moderate.
Also great: Pickle sampler; crab pierogi; stracciatella with squash; horseradish-glazed beef; tandy cake.