Chef Thomas Cardarelli, late of the Modern and Marea in New York, has taken over at this Old Town dining room. His warm salad of roasted squash, maitaike mushrooms, maple, and egg yolk is a yin/yang of flavor and texture, while Cheshire pork loin is enlivened with braised cabbage and Berliner weisse. Creatively flavored ice creams—such as winter-squash-and-sage—are the way to go for dessert. For optimum people-watching, request a table upstairs overlooking bustling King Street. Expensive.
Also great:beet salad; pickled mackerel; pork-and-cherry terrine; cavatelli with Bolognese; cobia with sunchokes.