The Texas kitsch can make this Penn Quarter dining hall feel gimmicky, but the barbecue is the real deal. Chef Dan Far-ber smokes his brisket for about 15 hours on pure Texan post oak—with no set-and-forget gas or electri-cal assist, as at many urban barbecue joints. The result tastes straight out of the Lone Star State. The sides are all easy to like, but we’d give an edge to the refreshing cucumber salad and (when it’s in season) creamy corn pudding. Also good: Jalapeño-cheese sausage; pulled pork; baked beans with burnt ends.