Good luck finding tortillas as good as the ones here. At hole-in-the-wall El Sol and the more atmospheric Mezcalero, small batches of masa are made every few hours and pressed to order into pliable, sheet-thin disks. The tortillas make an ideal foundation for lengua or carnitas tacos, or for stretchy strands of bubbling queso fundido. Chef Alfredo Solis and his sister Jessica also do their Mexico City roots proud with a standout ceviche de pescado and mole rojo chicken. Also good: Chile relleno; guacamole; chorizo-and-potato sandwich.