To understand chef Mike Friedman’s more-is-more culinary vision at these twin pizzerias, you need to order his garlic knots. The semolina dough is brushed with lemony garlic butter, spiraled like a cinnamon roll, then fried and drenched with not only more butter but also ultra-rich Parmesan fonduta. The pizzas, cooked in a deck oven, are sturdy-bottomed and superlative—especially when arrayed with things like buffalo chicken, Gorgonzola, and ranch. Not everything reads like a stoner’s dream: There are elegant dips and salads, too. The Navy Yard location puts on one of our favorite brunches in the area. Moderate.