About Poca Madre
One of the best restaurant revamps of the year came courtesy of Victor Albisu, who transformed his Penn Quarter steakhouse, Del Campo, into this sultry dining room (and added a branch of his popular Northern Virginia taqueria, Taco Bamba, too). Albisu channels the cutting-edge cuisine of Mexico City, where he says “tradition is being turned on its head.” Here that translates to Oaxacan rum cocktails frozen tableside; addictive “not guacamole,” with tempura avocado and chili-lime dressing; and kaleidoscopic ceviches. It’s easy to make a meal of smaller plates, but that would mean missing our favorite dishes: family-style taco platters featuring delectable meats—duck al pastor; a smoky pork chop cooked on the patio’s Green Egg—plus salsas, herbs, pickled vegetables, and freshly made tortillas. Expensive.