At a time when every hot spot requires good hearing and a better back, Convivial is the rare restaurant that values soundproofing and comfortable chairs. All the better to enjoy the playful French-American cooking from dual-passport chef Cedric Maupillier. An artful beef tartare dotted with cornichons and crumbled egg yolk alongside crispy potato conveys Maupillier’s knack for textures and eye-catching presentations. Meanwhile, a lovely bouillabaisse and a refined oxtail pot-au-feu show off skills honed under the late Michel Richard. It’s also worth lingering for some Key-lime pie or sticky toffee pudding. Moderate.