100 Very Best Restaurants: #46 – Maketto

Cost:

A Taiwanese and Cambodian feast at Maketto. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

The future of dining probably looks something like this hybrid cafe/men’s-streetwear shop/Southeast Asian restaurant—retail-and-restaurant combos are popping up everywhere right now. Mostly, we’re here for Erik Bruner-Yang’s take on Taiwanese and Cambodian cuisines. An order of pork or leek-and-mushroom bao is a no-brainer, and spicy lamb noodles are an obvious temptation. That said, we can never say no to the fried chicken. Big enough for two or more, the extra-crispy breasts are livened with Szechuan peppercorns, pickled cabbage, and a heavy drizzle of sweet caramelized fish sauce that soaks into hunks of baguette. Moderate.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.