Yuh Shimomura’s sliver of a dining room in Old Town is as intimate as it gets. Opt for a stool at the six-seat bar so you can watch the lone-wolf chef’s pyrotechnics in the form of blowtorches and indoor barbecuing. His $55 five-course Japanese set menus (no substitutions or choices) can be dazzling. An impeccable sashimi plate—hello, Spanish mackerel and edible flowers—is a given each night. There’s also typically a burbling hot pot and dense house-made ice cream. Inventive grilled, fried, and steamed morsels plus an esoteric collection of sake and Japanese whiskey fill in the gaps. Expensive.