Few restaurants can be called palatial these days, but the Jefferson hotel’s prix fixe salon fits the bill (behold the silk wallpaper and silver-tonged bread service). Chef Ralf Schlegel holds stodginess at bay with his modern flavor pairings—such as bison with shishito peppers and aji amarillo—and showstopping tableside presentations, including Wagyu shabu shabu heated in a siphon. Sommeliers may seem unenthused if you opt for a $17 Prosecco flute over $25-plus Champagne. No matter—save your drinks, because the lovely Quill bar sits down the hall (with live piano most nights). Very expensive.