Even though restaurateur Michael Schlow’s supper club is only three years old, it has a genuinely retro vibe. Ask nicely and hosts will book a corner booth, bartenders are quick to remember your drink, and servers toss bacon-heavy wedge salads at the table. Pastry chef Alex Levin’s throwback desserts are worth a trip in themselves. There’s plenty great in the regular lineup—goat-cheese fritters, Ned’s “famous” pork chop—though we have a hard time passing up the off-menu pasta all’amatriciana. And being the Riggsby, it’s happy to accommodate. Expensive.