About Stephen Kominsky
At a time when information bombardment is just life, there’s something luxurious about not being told—well, anything. Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s darkly lit Dupont rowhouse has no menu, and the only decision to make is “Wine pairing or no?” (The answer is yes, especially if you’re into funky natural bottles.) Monis’s lineup languidly moves from puffs of brioche crowned with trout roe to rustic share plates of grilled amberjack collar and the best cuttlefish we’ve had in ages. The grand finale—a communal hunk of lamb neck or baby goat, say, paired with warm pita and sauces for DIY sandwiches—is as stunning as it ever was. Very expensive.