100 Very Best Restaurants: #9 – Kinship
Servers at Kinship. Photograph by Scott Suchman
Eric Ziebold and Célia Laurent’s attention to detail and reverence for even the humblest ingredients add up to simple elegance at the more relaxed of their two fine-dining restaurants. While the subterranean Métier is tasting-menu-only, Kinship splits appetizers, entrées, and desserts into categories such as “craft,” “history,” and “ingredients.” We like to sample across all of them. Boudin blanc in an aerated ham broth shows off Ziebold’s technical skills, while lobster French toast with sesame mousse, persimmon, and cucumber is a luxurious combination that works beautifully. In the “for the table” section, the whole roast chicken with lemon-garlic panade is a signature worth splurging for. Very expensive.
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Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Food Editor
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Food Editor
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.