Eric Ziebold and Célia Laurent’s attention to detail and reverence for even the humblest ingredients add up to simple elegance at the more relaxed of their two fine-dining restaurants. While the subterranean Métier is tasting-menu-only, Kinship splits appetizers, entrées, and desserts into categories such as “craft,” “history,” and “ingredients.” We like to sample across all of them. Boudin blanc in an aerated ham broth shows off Ziebold’s technical skills, while lobster French toast with sesame mousse, persimmon, and cucumber is a luxurious combination that works beautifully. In the “for the table” section, the whole roast chicken with lemon-garlic panade is a signature worth splurging for. Very expensive.