Fine-dining devotees have a home at chef Eric Ziebold and Célia Laurent’s refined restaurant, split between the elegant upstairs dining room Kinship and the subterranean tasting temple Métier. These days, we’re partial to the former for the ability to rove among menu sections such as “history,” which often nods to Ziebold’s Midwestern roots (a decadent short-rib borscht), and “indulgence,” which includes lobster-buttered Dover sole. Downstairs, the prix fixe experience begins with aperitifs and snacks in a candlelit salon and continues over seven luxuriant courses. Sommelier Chase DuBay’s wine pairings were the best we had all year. Expensive to very expensive.