100 Very Best 2020Like sister restaurant Komi, chef Johnny Monis’s northern Thai venture has stayed unapologetically true to itself. Eight years in, the family-style menus are still mouth-searing, and there are no reservations, no substitutions, and a reliably warm and hospitable waitstaff. (Another cooling basket of veggies? Thank you!) The seven-course roster doesn’t change a whole lot, either—for fans of chili-laced larb salads and devotees of the Mekhong-whiskey-marinated pork ribs, that’s a beautiful thing. For something different, keep an eye out for summertime seafood weeks, holiday pig roasts, and the fun and funky beverage list. Expensive.
