Every day is brunch day at this American diner as seen through the eyes of a French chef, David Deshaies. Here, avocado toast doesn’t taste trite, and a bagel with lox is turned into an elegant appetizer. At night, Deshaies serves nachos made from kale and poppers with chicken-pot-pie filling. Our ideal meal: meatloaf and an order of spiny crab. The crabcake, spiky with phyllo, is an homage to Deshaies’s trompe-l’oeil-loving mentor, the late Michel Richard. Moderate.