It’s been a decade since Seng Luangrath introduced Washingtonians to the spicy flavors of Laos. What started with a secret menu in a strip-mall Thai spot has evolved into a handful of Laotian restaurants. It’s a testament to Luangrath—and son Bobby Pradachith—that so many diners have been turned on to, say, rice salad with fermented-pork sausage. And that they—and we—keep coming back for more. Inexpensive.