Cedric Maupillier is leaning into his French roots especially hard these days at this Shaw bistro. And that’s just fine with us. Fresh reasons to visit include a strapping choucroute garnie, an endive-and-Roquefort salad, a butterflied chicken with vinegar-tarragon sauce, and the elegant floating island. That said, Maupillier has also mastered the art of the all-American burger. Moderate.