Chef Erik Bruner-Yang seems to be everywhere these days—running the new restaurant ABC Pony, designing menus for the Kennedy Center—but the fare at his Taiwanese/Cambodian flagship still feels personal. We dug into soup dumplings (all-you-can-eat on weekdays), searing cumin lamb noodles, and steamed branzino with mushroom duxelles. Service is reliably out to lunch, but with dim sum this tasty, we’ll overlook it. Moderate.
