Little has felt consistent in restaurants since the pandemic. Anju’s warm welcome and soulful cooking are a notable exception. Dupont’s neighborhood Korean spot—which opened in 2019 with gastropub ambitions and destination-worthy execution—feels like a second living room with the kind of thoughtful, unfussy cooking that breeds regulars. Thank matriarch Yesoon “Mama” Lee for homey, kimchi-laced stews. Chef Angel Barretto innovates with dishes such as rice-stuffed Cornish hen in ginseng soup, galbi boards with seasonal accoutrements, and citrusy hamachi-pomegranate crudo. Dinner is date-worthy, but we also love the low-key brunch and the bar for happy-hour kimchi dogs. Moderate.