100 Very Best Restaurants: #4 – Happy Gyro

Mozzarella sticks. Photograph by Scott Suchman

The team behind the Dupont Circle fine-dining destination Komi traded a tasting menu for Greek-deli-inspired carryout during the pandemic and has never looked back. Johnny Monis’s to-go menu—a hodgepodge of “grandpa-style” sourdough pizza slices, pita-wrapped sandwiches, and seasonal sides—changes often (and has moved away from the vegetarian fast-food riffs it opened with). Everything we’ve sampled over the last year always tastes like the ideal version of itself. This is the falafel we now crave. Mozzarella sticks? Good luck finding any crunchier, creamier, and stretchier. Throw in cheffy ice creams—olive oil with cocoa crumble, Basque cheesecake with a raspberry swirl—plus a cool selection of natural wines, and we can’t think of any place that feels more fun and of-the-moment. Inexpensive.