The lengthy northern Chinese dim sum menu might seem overwhelming at first glance. Our strategy: Start with housemade noodles (particularly the wide ribbons in hot-and-sour sauce), and always, always order the pan-fried pork dumplings. From there, it’s hard to go wrong with dishes like thousand-layer pancakes, pig ears slicked in chili oil, and garlicky cucumber salad. Plates are affordable enough to sample widely. Inexpensive.