100 Very Best Restaurants: – Thompson Italian

Photograph by Stephen Vilnit.

This mom-and-pop Italian spot in Falls Church and its new Old Town sibling are run by former RPM Italian chef Gabe Thompson and Katherine Thompson, who is quietly one of the area’s best pastry chefs. Start with a boldly flavorful Caesar made from chicory, or a bulb of burrata with delicata squash and cider vinaigrette. We spend more time on the pastas, whether cauliflower agnolotti with balsamic or squid-ink campanelle with scallops and chilies, than on the few larger meat and fish dishes. And we never skimp on the salt-flecked olive-oil cake and other desserts. Moderate.