Sure, ramps and morels are great, but come spring, the seasonal delicacy I most look forward to is a soft-shell crab sandwich. Get one—or another of these other creative takes—while you can.
Anju
1805 18th St., NW
Konghuksu—a summery, chilled black-sesame-and-soybean soup—arrives with Old Bay-scented, tempura-fried crab, plus somen noodles and salmon roe at Dupont’s mod-Korean destination.
Centrolina
974 Palmer Alley, NW
Squid-ink spaghetti is tossed with crab, hot peppers, and green tomatoes at Amy Brandwein’s CityCenterDC place.
Cranes
724 Ninth St., NW
Pepe Moncayo puts a Japanese spin on soft-shells at his Penn Quarter dining room. His version accents tempura-fried crab with edamame hummus, jalapeño, and ginger.
The Dabney
122 Blagden Alley, NW
This mid-Atlantic-obsessed tasting room serves an a la carte menu at the bar, and that’s where you’ll find its fried soft-shell with country-ham vinaigrette, turnips, and watercress pistou.
Han Palace
2649 Connecticut Ave., NW
Love salt-and-pepper shrimp? Try the crunchy soft-shell crab version at this Woodley Park dim sum house.
Meli
1630 Columbia Rd., NW
Grab a patio table at this Adams Morgan Greek spot and dig into its pan-fried soft-shell served atop briny tarama dip.
The Point and the Tavern at Ivy City Smokehouse
2100 Second St., SW (the Point); 1356 Okie St., NE (Ivy City Smokehouse)
If you’re looking for something straightforward, the tavern atop seafood market Ivy City Smokehouse, and its sister restaurant at Buzzard Point, are your spots. Their sandwiches let the crispy fried crab be the star, with lettuce, tomato, and either remoulade or mayo on a brioche bun.
The Salt Line
79 Potomac Ave., SE; 4040 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 7284 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda
One of my favorite takes is this brilliant play on a Nashville hot chicken sandwich, which comes back year after year at these New England-inspired spots. The crustacean is buttermilk fried, doused in hot sauce, and served on grilled bread with black-garlic honey and pickled green tomatoes.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
